Ghost Ranch, NM

We made our own breakfast then got a ride to Wolf Creek Pass. We said goodbye to Craig and Anna, chatted a bit with some folks who were interested in what we were up to (and we were called crazy), then started our climb up to Treasure Pass. We met a woman trail running, and she warned us about some bicyclists coming our way. We contoured around Alberta Peak, sown to Railroad Pass, and wound our way to Silver Pass. The day was clear and warm, with just a bit of a breeze. We got to Bonito Pass and really started to notice cow impact. We weaved along the Divide to Summit Pass, taking in the view of Montezuma Peak. We got to Elwood Pass, contouring on a jeep trail toward the Peak, but not quite making it. We made camp on a lumpy, windy saddle.

The wind howled all night, making for a restless night. The wind also brought clouds and fog, making for a very grey day. We contoured around Montezuma Peak, then Summit peak, winding around and down Adams Fork, before climbing up to an unnamed ridge, and running into Dirk again. He told us Yas was 3 hours ahead, and the Noodleheads were 30 minutes ahead. We hadn't seen them since Lincoln, MT! We went around a bend, and down by North Fork Conejos River. DP saw a bull elk down below us. We contoured another bend, and across the valley were two little dots making their way down the trail. The Noodleheads! We contoured, climbed and descended our way to Blue Lake, when the skies opened up a it rained and hailed. We ducked under some trees to wait the worst of it out. I spotted a tent in the trees as we headed back out, so we went over and there the Noodleheads, camped for the night. We sloppily set up our tent and chatted with them until the rain stopped and the sun came out. They stayed while we pushed on. We slogged through mud up to the Divide, grabbing water from a pond 2 inches deep using a cup and coffee filters. We found a flat spot behind some trees to protect us from wind.

The clouds had gone, but a fog rolled through, making a gorgeous sunrise! We made our way past Trail Lake, taking in the views. We skipped down to Dipping Lakes, climbed back up to the ridge, and was buffeted heavily by the wind. We passed out of the South San Juan Wilderness heading south on a ridge. We walked into the closed section of trail, since the alternate looked longer. We reached the section where active logging had taken place to rid the area of beetle killed trees, only to have a storm roll through and blow down the existing live and dead trees. The area looked like a giant game of pick-up-sticks. We found a "road" that looked to be going in the right direction, then followed a cow path when the road just ended. The cow path petered out so we had to bushwhack our way towards Wolf Creek, found another cow path that led to the proper trail. We took this to Cumbres Pass, where the Denver and Rio Grande Western Train was blowing off some steam. We also met a CDTA Trail Crew who were marking the trail and making maps. We took the newly constructed, but poorly made, trail to the border of New Mexico! We passed through, and started into our last state. Winding through trees past Dixie Creek, first enjoying the views into Chama Canyon, we wound for hours through the trees, not seeing much of anything. We startled some hoofed animal, though we didn't see what it was. We eventually came to a meadow with some cows, but with the failing light we lost the trail. We found it again as we walked down a dirt road, but looking at the map, we decided the road was more direct. We got water for the night, then pushed on until we hit a gated fence. We couldn't find our spur road, so started cross country to where we wanted to go. It was very cold in the open field, and thinking we had done enough miles, we crossed into the Land Grant area and found a spot to camp in the only trees around.

Woke early to the sound of mooing. We 'shwacked to a jeep road that lead out of the private land and back on the trail. The sky was a solid grey, with really, ugly black and blue clouds heading straight for us. We got rained on a little early in the morning, and it stopped by the time we reached Brazos Ridge Overlook. We continued on the road, hoping the weather would break. We followed a 'schwack on the map, following the Rio San Antonio, which was heavily trafficked by cows. We had just gotten started, when it began to rain in earnest. We geared up and kept going, taking cow paths back to the official route. We passed Yanderosa Ranch and quite a few cows, when I realized I lost one of my rain gloves. Oh well, plastic bags work just as well. The rain wouldn't let up, and we just kept our heads down. I almost got creamed by a falling chunk of bark, but we eventually came to Highway 64, and went to Hopewell picnic area. We got into a three-walled shelter to get out of the rain. We started to shiver and debated about trying our luck at hitching to town, but finally made the decision to stick it out and get to Burned Mt, where we found a damp place to camp and get warm.

It stopped raining in the night, but we were still getting dripped. We had an uneventful morning, following jeep roads all day. We meandered our way to Ojito Azul and grabbed water from it before heading up the hill to dry out our stuff. We hung everything we could on a low juniper and set up the tent. We continued on, finding another piped spring and drying out the rest of our gear in the warm sun. In better spirits, we walked on, seeing a Bolivian shepherd in Caño Canyon and grabbing more water here. WE followed the road alone Mogote Ridge, lost the trail when we took a wrong turn near FR636A, 'shwacked to Harris Bear Spring, got more water for the night, then pushed on another 3 miles to a wonderful spot under trees near Puertocito de las Ranas.

Woke up refreshed knowing we would be in Ghost Ranch. We followed FR 137, briefly losing the trail when the road petered out, and on to FR 139. We took this road until it basically ended at a cliff side, and we had to make our way down. There was a bit of road still clinging to the cliff, so we followed that and found an old mine that was never completed. We continued down, completely losing the trail once we reached the canyon bottom. WE followed what cairns we could find, then followed footprints through a sage field. We found more cairns down into Arroyo del Yeso, then down into a box canyon just before the ranch. We had to cross a stream several times, and one time I thought I was landing on a sand bar that turned out to be quicksand. Oops. Slopped my way out and into Ghost Ranch. We checked in, taking the last available cheap room ($90!) and waited for lunch to be served. We got our packages, food drop and gear, then stood in line for food. Enchiladas and salad! Yum!! We checked into our room, and I was blindsided by a migraine. I tried to journal, but couldn't think. I laid down, and DP put cold water into a platy and put it on my head. I eventually took a major painkiller, and by the time dinner was up, I felt (conveniently) better. Dinner was fish and scalloped potatoes, with a pineapple cake for dessert. A worker at the ranch, Adam, invited us to his room for some margaritas. We joined him and his roommate, Nate, then went to bed afterwards.